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Above the Clouds

The Heart of Zadar

Mountainous terrain and clear blue skies greet me as I blearily open my eyes. My phone reads 7:05 AM, meaning we’re almost at our destination: Zadar, Croatia. Riding along the Adriatic Coast, the other passengers start to rumble awake, and our bus makes its way towards our hostel.


I settle into my four-person room and head outside to get ready for our tour. Despite this being a budget trip, the coastline views are anything but. Our group is made up of around 50 exchange students from across Europe, standing around and getting to know each other. Even after the 14-hour bus ride, I’m buzzing with excitement to start exploring. The air is balmy, and I can practically feel Zadar’s sights waiting to be discovered.


Walking along the water, I’m amazed by the azure seas. The only water I’ve seen in months is the Vltava River, and I forgot water could be this blue. Roman architecture lines the streets, accented by vibrant colors and patterns that let you know you’re in a coastal town. The smells of food being prepared and sounds of people gathering to shop, eat, and explore fill the streets. I take it all in hungrily, torn between capturing the views on my phone and experiencing it in real-time. 


Signs for fresh seafood and local wines adorn windows in Old Town. I’m tempted to stop into a few of them. Making a mental note to come back later, I continue through the busy town. As we work our way through the cobblestone streets filled with Romanesque buildings, I get more and more enthralled by the charming harmony of Mediterranean and Roman influence.  

The swell of buildings breaks, and we step towards the sea again. Casting a golden glow across the waterfront, the sun is giving its last show before descending into the horizon. People are gathering to watch the performance, and I notice a resolute sound filling the background.


“It’s the Sea Organ,” our tour guide explains. Built by Nikola Bašić to break up the monotonous concrete wall along the coast, the Sea Organ literally plays the music of the waves. As the water rises and falls against the marble steps, the organ responds with a beautiful melody. Where the town center was vibrant and noisy, the Sea Organ is harmonious and calm. It plays a unique song made by every new sunset. 


Draping my legs to hang over the water, I sit down on the edge of the organ. The sun dips closer to Zadar; the symphony plays on. The city moves from day to night, and the soundtrack follows. Standing up, I head back towards the town center, ready to experience the same sights under a starlit glow.

 

 

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